All Culinary Artist Should Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Best Restaurants.

When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.